Cristian Merello is 28 and rides huge waves. From Chile, the huge waves he rides (around home) are cold and menacing. He rides them goofy foot, paddling in and plummeting down sheer walls. He is mad. And, like most men who are truly mad, his personality is quiet and subdued. He sits still, not moving, watching the action break around him.
When his opinion is asked for he gives it. When his fists are needed he lends them. He is a man like Hemingway. Cristian goes where the ocean is mean. He is brave and quiet and full of internal fury that allows him to stare death in the eye. Cristian watches World Cup soccer, when it is on.
Cristian in action, Chile 2008